Pullip Shalom Cardigan

Based on Meghan McFarlane's beautiful human-sized cardigan, Shalom, this soft, elegant little number will wrap your girls in cozy. I will admit that it looks really weird off the doll, since it has flared sleeves (just like the original). However, when the piece is put on your doll, the bust will pull in, fit right, and look quite nice.  Normally, I like to knit my demo sweater in the same color as the human version, but in this case, it's very hard to find crochet thread in any but the lightest grays!

This sweater is knit, like the original, in one piece, from the top down.  When you come to the sleeves, you'll just bind off twice in the middle of the row, and on the row right after that, you'll work the two stitches on either side of this gap together to create cap sleeves.  It makes sense, trust me - just follow the directions exactly as written.  The benefit to this is that you will have NO seams and TWO ends to weave in (provided you only use one color).  How awesome is that!?

*Disclaimer: this pattern has not yet been checked for accuracy, and I wrote up the pattern from sparse notes.  I am going to try to knit one as soon as possible, but I decided to post anyway.  If you decide to try it, and run into any issues, please email me and I will try to fix them.

Materials:

• Size 1-US needles (for knitting flat)
• One ball of size 10 bamboo crochet thread
• Used for example: Aunt Lydia’s Bamboo (100% bamboo, 300 yd/ball) in 0810 Still Pool
• Use of substitute yarns will not result in the beautiful drape that this bamboo thread offers, though you are welcome to try (please let me know what results you obtain!)
• One small button (I used ¼” buttons)
• Scissors & darning needle

You will need to know:

• How to knit and purl (and how to combine them into K2 P2 rib)
• How to yo
• How to k1 and p1 tbl
• The m1p increase

Gauge: 11 sts/per inch in stockinette stitch on size 1-US needles.  To ensure accurate sizing, be sure to check your gauge.

Cardigan:

CO 29 stitches.  K 2 rows.

On next row, k2, yo, k2tog, k to end.

Next row: k all sts.

Begin increases:

Row 1: k5, *(m1, k1), rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 2: k3, *(p1 tbl, k1), rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 3: k3, *(k1 tbl, p1), rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Rep rows 2 & 3 one more time.

K 1 row.

Next increase set:

Row 1: k3, *(k3, m1, k2, m1), rep from * until last 3 sts, k3.

Row 2: k3, *(p1 tbl, k1), rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 3: k3, *(k1 tbl, p1), rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Rep rows 2 & 3 one more time.

K 1 row.

Last increase set:

Row 1:  k4, *(m1, k3), rep from * until last st, k1.

Row 2: k3, *(p1 tbl, k1), rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 3: k3, *(k1 tbl, p1), rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Rep rows 2 & 3 one more time.

K 1 row.

Create sleeves:

K 9 sts, BO 24 sts, k 17 sts, BO 24 sts, k 9 sts.

Next row - joining the body together - k3, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p to last 3 sts, k3.

Continue in stockinette stitch, keeping 3 border sts in garter st as established (this just means for every WS row, k first and last 3 sts), for the length you want the sweater to be.  Mine was around 4.5 cm (I think, the original is now in Taiwan).

K 3 rows, starting the first of these 3 rows on a row you'd normally purl.

BO in knit.

I didn't block mine and it turned out fine; if you aren't happy with the consistency of your tension, gently wet-block.  Sew on the button and you're done - seriously.