Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Knitting Pattern: February Pullip Sweater

This pattern has been TRIPLE checked for accuracy: I have made a green sweater, a blue/purple variegated sweater, and a brown sweater for a Dal with a needle one size smaller (for my wonderful Ravelry swap partner, Mimi).  It is very easy, provided you are an intermediate knitter with a familiarity working with crochet thread on size 1 needles.

One final note: if you are lazy (like me) or not a big fan of using dolly-sized buttons (let's face it: who likes jamming a tiny little button into a tiny little hole?) you are welcome to use another closure, like a hook and eyelet (metal, not "velcro") and sew on faux buttons if you want to. 

February Pullip Sweater
Based on the February Lady sweater, available human-sized at Flint Knits.
Lillian plays the part of "innocent schoolgirl" pretty convincingly.

  • Size 1-US needles (one circular, two DPNs with point protectors, whatever works for you)
  • One ball (you will need far less than a full ball) of size 10 crochet cotton
    • Used for example: Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Cotton (100% mercerized cotton, 350 yd/ball) in 484 Myrtle Green
  • Three very small buttons
  • Scissors & darning needle

You will need to know:
  • How to knit and purl
  • How to decrease: k2tog and ssk
  • How to yo
  • Basic familiarity with lace patterns: combining k2tog, ssk, and yo in the same rows (Note: working lace patterns, for me at least, requires an additional level of focus and concentration.  Try to work your lace patterns where you would be less distracted than usual, such as while your dear boyfriend watches a particularly boring game of golf on TV)
  • Garter stitch (knit every row)
  • The m1 increase
Gauge: 11 sts/per inch in stockinette stitch on size 1-US needles.  To ensure accurate sizing, be sure to check your gauge.
You will need to have a separate ball of yarn for working the sleeves and body, or two ends from the same ball.  Since I usually work from a ball of crochet thread, where only one end is available, I wind about 30 yards of thread onto a bobbin (the small Susan Bates kind, in my favorite color – purple) to hold aside for the sleeves.  Cut a separate length of yarn, begin the sweater, and you won’t have to break the yarn to work the sleeves and then rejoin it to work the body.

Gull lace pattern (see above site for source):
Row 1: (K1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1) across row.
Rows 2 & 4: p all sts.
Row 3: (k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk) across row.

CO 24 sts.  K 3 rows.
Work increases according to the following chart.  The chart works like this, for row 1:
K4, (m1, k1, m1), k3, (m1, k1, m1), k6, (m1, k1, m1), k3, (m1, k1, m1), k4.  The number in the first row is the starting stitch count (not the number of stitches you will end up with).  Always k one row after working an increase row.

24 4 3 6 3 4 BH
32 5 5 8 5 5
40 6 7 10 7 6
48 7 9 12 9 7 BH
56 8 11 14 11 8
64 9 13 16 13 9
(Please pardon my quite rudimentary HTML skills.)

For rows ending with the letters BH:
After working the increase row, work a buttonhole row on the WS.  K2, yo, k2tog, k to end. 

After you get to 72 sts total, end after one more row (WS).

Next row: place 11 sts on holder, place 15 sts on spare DPN, place 20 sts on holder, place 15 sts on spare DPN, place 11 sts on holder.

K2 rows. Only the last 14 sts are worked in pattern, so knit (or slip) every first stitch of every RS row and p every last st on every WS row.
Begin gull lace pattern.  Work until the sleeves are nearly desired length (for me, this was just past elbows, and four repeats of the four-row pattern).  Work 3 rows of garter st: k next RS row and two more rows, and BO, leaving at least a 12-inch tail to sew seams.

Resume body of sweater:
K all sts onto one needle.  Do NOT work two stitches together under each underarm.  If you are concerned about gaps under the arms, you may close any hole when seaming the sleeves, or you may pull one stitch through the other and work them in the wrong order (k one st on the other side of the gap, k st before gap).  Work buttonhole row next for these sts.
Work these sts in gull lace pattern as well, until the body is almost at the desired length.  K 3 rows in garter st again.  BO all sts.

Sew sleeve seams using tails of yarn left from binding off.  Weave in all ends.  Attach buttons opposite buttonholes.  Block.

Saturday, April 24, 2010

So sorry for the delay!

Hello lovelies and all interested Pullipers!

It's been a while - life has been really crazy around here, and between a new dog and preparing to graduate from grad school, I've had hardly any time to craft!

Luckily I have a good backlog of patterns ready for editing and publishing that I should be able to post without too much more delay.

Coming soon: my "spring" line of human sweaters sized for Pullips; sewing patterns I'm finally able to scan (at home!), and some goth/punk variations of existing designs to show you, modeled by my Neo Noir, Lillian.

Stay tuned, and I appreciate your patience.  For future reference, I'm not going to shut down this blog without an explanation, so if there is an extended absence, it's very likely a "vacation."  :)

Monday, January 25, 2010

Knitting Pattern: Pullip T-shirt

As promised (if a day late), here is the pattern of the week.

Pullip Raglan T-shirt
Revised 10/4/11

  • Size 10 crochet thread.  Used for example:  J&P Coats Royale Crochet Thread (100% mercerized cotton, 350 yd/320m) in 493 French Rose.
  • Size 1-US needles, straight, circular, or a pair of DPN's
  • One long stitch holder, three safety pins, or two double-pointed needles (in addition to needles above)
  • 2 stitch markers
  • Scissors, ruler, darning needle
  • Yarn bobbin (not crucial)
You will need to know:
  • How to knit, purl, and work in both garter stitch and stockinette stitch
  • How to ssk, k2tog, and m1
Gauge: 11 sts/per inch in stockinette stitch on size 1-US needles.  To ensure accurate sizing, be sure to check your gauge.
    Note: wind about 5 yd of thread onto a bobbin for sleeves before beginning.

    CO 33 sts.
    K 2 rows.  P 1 row.

    Begin raglan increases.
    K according to chart below, working (m1, k1, m1) between each set of numbers:

    Click the image to view a larger version.

    I am going to include instructions for a baggier sweater as well (the second set up numbers, in parentheses).  This might fit Barbie; if you have a chance to try it, please let me know.

    Once you have 73(81) sts on the needles, p 1 row.

    Divide for sleeves: slip 11(13) sts onto holder, set 15(17) sts aside on a DPN or another holder, slip 21(23) sts onto holder, set aside 15(17) sts, slip 11(13) sts onto holder.

    Work sleeves: join yarn from bobbin to each set of 15(17) sts, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 2 rows, BO in k.

    Continue where you left off from the body sts: k10, k2tog, k19, k2tog, k10.  41 sts.*

    For a classic t-shirt shape (as shown), continue straight for the length desired, k 2 rows, and BO.

    For a shaped t-shirt, continue as follows:
    Set-up row (after row marked with *): p10, place marker, p21, place marker, p10.  Work 2 rows even.

    Row 1: K to marker, slip marker, ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k to end.
    Row 2: P all sts.
    Row 3: K to 2 sts before marker, ssk, slip marker, k to next marker, slip marker, k2tog, k to end.
    Row 4: P all sts.

    Rep above 4 rows once more.  33 sts.

    K 1 row, p 1 row.  (Leave markers in place.)

    Begin increases for hips: *K to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1, rep from * once, k to end.
    P next row.

    Repeat this row until you have 45 sts (three repeats of the above two rows).  K 2 rows.  BO.  Sew sleeve seams.  Weave in all ends.  Sew snaps onto the back (or, be like me, and pin the shirt on so that you can quickly photograph it!).

    Thursday, January 21, 2010

    New Pullip: Meet Eve

    Hello all!
    Just a quick update.  I've actually gotten two Pullips since the beginning of the year, but Lillian (Neo Noir) is shy and doesn't want her pictures up until she has a respectable goth wardrobe.  Here is Eva, my rewigged Celsiy!  (I'm not sure if she will be keeping her type 3 body, though.  We'll see.)

    Patterns are coming soon; I'm just waiting on a couple of designers to give permission for me to post miniature versions of their patterns, and of course there will be a few originals too.  I also have some sewing patterns that I'm working on finishing up, including a modified version of PuchiCollective's pants, an original kimono, a pleated skirt, an A-line Lolita skirt, and a couple of blouses.  I have a few knit pieces to finish up and then I will be posting pictures AND patterns at the same time! Expect a post by this weekend!

    Monday, January 11, 2010

    Update on Plans for Spring


    It's been a while since I've posted, and for good reason: I'm entering my last semester of grad school, and finals through December were pretty brutal since I took 17 hours.  Mark my words: DO. NOT. DO. THAT.

    Anyway, I have big plans for this blog in the coming months.  I've ordered a good bit of supplies from Knitpicks (including new needles to replace the ones I have used into tarnish and even destroyed).  Even using what I have around the house, I have knitted a fair number of pieces that sit next to me in various states of finish: a red and white striped minidress, a bra top, shrug, cardi's... lots of ends to weave in!  What I intend to do is this: knit Pullip-sized versions of popular Ravelry and Knitty designs, kindly ask for permission to post the Pullip patterns from designers, and then release the patterns on here.  At the very least, I think I can post pictures of the finished products, even without permission (since presumably the designer would allow me to post a picture of their design on a human), so at least there will be pictures as soon as I go on the massive finishing spree required to get these pieces (including the older, already-posted pieces that have yet to be finished) photo-ready.

    Good news too: Christmas (or rather, New Year's) yielded a fantastic new friend - Neo Noir, who I've named Lillian.  I LOVE this doll - I was a little Gothy in high school and she is unmistakably Goth with that cat-eye makeup and deep red eyes.  Lillian opens up all kinds of opportunities for me to knit: where Lenore is usually bright and sunny but sometimes conservative (a kind of amalgam of my sister's and my styles), Lillian is dark, demure, (dare I say sexy?) and certainly not afraid to show a little skin.  Where it feels strange dressing Lenore in revealing styles, it feels natural with Lillian.  So the plans are to post some patterns in that direction - lingerie, micro-miniskirts, corset styling, and deep jewel tones.

    Finally, I have a great modified pattern that the Puchi Collective has graciously given me permission to post: Pullip pants.  Since school is starting soon, I should be able to get access to a scanner (when the lab isn't busy, which it shouldn't be early on in the semester) and post that as a .pdf (no resizing needed).

    So please, stay tuned and bear with me!