tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9895405623952346892024-03-13T10:16:20.959-05:00Nemata pannumque canoOf yarns and cloth I singMegan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.comBlogger19125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-4449326454538376602011-11-19T00:09:00.001-06:002011-11-21T16:05:13.259-06:00Holiday HiatusHello to all:<br />
I am going to take a brief (2-3 month hiatus) from blogging. I have had a very productive year, have acquired two Blythe dolls, and have been so full of inspiration for doll sweaters, so I hope you won't mind. I am doing a 100% handmade Christmas this year, so I am going to dedicate the next month to working on gifts for my family - then I am moving across the state and doubt I will be back in full commission before the middle of January. I fully plan on returning to posting patterns in the spring, and my Flickr should be relatively active over the next few weeks. (This will not affect the giveaway; those items will still be mailed out on the first of December - you still have 11 days to enter!)<br />
Thank you for your patience. Hope to see you all soon!<br />
<br />
Edited to add: in case you didn't think I was serious, <a href="https://docs.google.com/open?id=0By3Ulgic11qdY2U2OGFkMzQtN2Q5Zi00OWE1LThlNjgtNzY1NzU4OTg2N2Yz" target="_blank">here is a holiday calendar of all the items on my list to make</a>. (You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to open the file.)<br />
<br />
If you ever plan on doing a 100% handmade holiday, I would highly recommend this approach as it has taken my nebulous, overwhelming disorganization into an undertaking I think I can actually finish! Just make a list of the people for whom you want to make something, then break it down: 4 hats, 5 pairs of gloves, dish cloths, whatever. Then figure out about how long it will take you to do each item; for me, a dish cloth takes about an hour; a fingerless glove takes about 2. Lastly, create a calender and divide up your projects: I suggest divvying up the most difficult/ambitious projects first, then interspersing the rest of the projects within those days. I had to take into consideration the fact that my fingers hurt when I crochet too much, so I can only do one pot holder per day. I know which days I have more time to knit (Saturdays and Sundays) so I planned more work on those days. I also gave myself extra time at the end for finishing, as I am NOTORIOUS for not sewing seams and then staying up til 4 AM on Christmas Eve, never finishing the project, and having a really stressed out Christmas. You will notice that I did not plan anything at all on Christmas Eve - that's because I wrap presents in the morning, and by that point, the stress will be too much to be worthwhile.<br />
<br />
Then comes the challenge of keeping yourself on task. I haven't gotten off-task yet, but I would say, do your very best to do what you planned on THAT DAY. If you get behind, don't let everything get off. For example, if I don't finish my scarf today, I will put it aside and move on to tomorrow's projects, then when I have extra time I will go back and finish. I have also added a couple of extra projects in there for "just in case" situation, in case I forget someone. My "extras" this year are two cotton-blend, tan scarves made from clearance yarn.<br />
<br />
If anyone has any ideas for holiday packaging that fits in with the "homemade" theme (that is: no bright colors, no flashy wrapping paper, no boxes [if possible], NO PLASTIC), I would love to hear them in the comments. I'm a big fan of tissue paper, yarn "ribbon," and recycled paper bags. I also would like packaging items in handmade bags - if I have any extra time on my finishing days, I might whip up a dozen or so simple, calico drawstring bags (if I do, I'll share the pattern).Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-82097729026255009562011-11-12T14:34:00.000-06:002011-11-15T19:01:33.737-06:00Pullip Shalom CardiganBased on Meghan McFarlane's beautiful human-sized cardigan, <a href="http://www.shapingdesign.com/Portals/0/involving/shalom_cardigan.pdf">Shalom</a>, this soft, elegant little number will wrap your girls in cozy. I will admit that it looks really weird off the doll, since it has flared sleeves (just like the original). However, when the piece is put on your doll, the bust will pull in, fit right, and look quite nice. Normally, I like to knit my demo sweater in the same color as the human version, but in this case, it's very hard to find crochet thread in any but the lightest grays!<br />
<div>
This sweater is knit, like the original, in one piece, from the top down. When you come to the sleeves, you'll just bind off twice in the middle of the row, and on the row right after that, you'll work the two stitches on either side of this gap together to create cap sleeves. It makes sense, trust me - just follow the directions exactly as written. The benefit to this is that you will have NO seams and TWO ends to weave in (provided you only use one color). How awesome is that!?<br />
<br />
<i>*Disclaimer: this pattern has not yet been checked for accuracy, and I wrote up the pattern from sparse notes. I am going to try to knit one as soon as possible, but I decided to post anyway. If you decide to try it, and run into any issues, please email me and I will try to fix them.</i><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv6-yf2hy-EVOv9TQl9Jf5vBIs6e-OulUTA1cXFnLgAArxMKDIhUAGQrb8GoyKh9xjFI0CnBK1gEpf45F2MR0iP1xW-axQJ6d0cvpBJKmNEIa-V5M0-x9jv1I3v4627aCbLcdyqllbfpQ/s1600/DSC_0259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv6-yf2hy-EVOv9TQl9Jf5vBIs6e-OulUTA1cXFnLgAArxMKDIhUAGQrb8GoyKh9xjFI0CnBK1gEpf45F2MR0iP1xW-axQJ6d0cvpBJKmNEIa-V5M0-x9jv1I3v4627aCbLcdyqllbfpQ/s640/DSC_0259.JPG" width="424" /></a></div>
<div>
<br />
<br />
<b>Materials:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Size 1-US needles (for knitting flat)</li>
<li>One ball of size 10 bamboo crochet thread</li>
<li>Used for example: Aunt Lydia’s Bamboo (100% bamboo, 300 yd/ball) in 0810 Still Pool</li>
<li>Use of substitute yarns will not result in the beautiful drape that this bamboo thread offers, though you are welcome to try (please <a href="mailto:megan.nordyke@gmail.com">let me know</a> what results you obtain!)</li>
<li>One small button (I used ¼” buttons)</li>
<li>Scissors & darning needle</li>
</ul>
<b>You will need to know:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>How to knit and purl (and how to combine them into K2 P2 rib)</li>
<li>How to yo</li>
<li>How to k1 and p1 tbl</li>
<li>The m1p increase</li>
</ul>
<div>
<b>Gauge</b>: 11 sts/per inch in stockinette stitch on size 1-US needles. To ensure accurate sizing, <b>be sure to check your gauge.</b> <br />
<br />
<b>Cardigan:</b></div>
<div>
CO 29 stitches. K 2 rows.</div>
<div>
On next row, k2, yo, k2tog, k to end.</div>
<div>
Next row: k all sts.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Begin increases:</div>
<div>
Row 1: k5, *(m1, k1), rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.</div>
<div>
Row 2: k3, *(p1 tbl, k1), rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.</div>
<div>
Row 3: k3, *(k1 tbl, p1), rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.</div>
Rep rows 2 & 3 one more time.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
K 1 row.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Next increase set:</div>
<div>
Row 1: k3, *(k3, m1, k2, m1), rep from * until last 3 sts, k3.</div>
<div>
Row 2: k3, *(p1 tbl, k1), rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.</div>
<div>
Row 3: k3, *(k1 tbl, p1), rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.</div>
<div>
Rep rows 2 & 3 one more time.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
K 1 row.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Last increase set:</div>
<div>
Row 1: k4, *(m1, k3), rep from * until last st, k1.</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
Row 2: k3, *(p1 tbl, k1), rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.</div>
<div>
Row 3: k3, *(k1 tbl, p1), rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.</div>
Rep rows 2 & 3 one more time.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
K 1 row.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Create sleeves:</div>
<div>
K 9 sts, BO 24 sts, k 17 sts, BO 24 sts, k 9 sts.</div>
<div>
Next row - joining the body together - k3, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p to last 3 sts, k3.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Continue in stockinette stitch, keeping 3 border sts in garter st as established (this just means for every WS row, k first and last 3 sts), for the length you want the sweater to be. Mine was around 4.5 cm (I think, the original is now in Taiwan).</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
K 3 rows, starting the first of these 3 rows on a row you'd normally purl.</div>
<div>
BO in knit.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I didn't block mine and it turned out fine; if you aren't happy with the consistency of your tension, gently wet-block. Sew on the button and you're done - seriously.</div>
</div>Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-69649810630525153182011-10-29T06:00:00.000-05:002011-11-15T14:00:44.929-06:00Knitting Pattern: Classy Collared Capelet for Pullip & Blythe<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b></b>Based off of a <a href="http://www.bernat.com/pattern.php?PID=4462">Bernat pattern</a> I found, this wrap makes the perfect fall cover-up for a coordinating dress. You can choose, like I did, to use a contrasting color for the collar and trim, or you can go with a solid like the original, human version. Either way, it’s a very simple piece with minimal finishing (if you hate sewing tiny seams as much as I do, you’ll love that there are none) and a lovely yarn over increase detail. The unmodified pattern will fill Pullip and Blythe; I think it will fit a Barbie if you go up a needle size. </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>Classy Collared Capelet for Pullip</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6103/6215963731_a96b01fd3e_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6103/6215963731_a96b01fd3e_b.jpg" width="287" /></span></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Materials</b>:</span></div>
<ul type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Size 1-US needles (for knitting flat)</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">One ball MC (you will need far less than a full ball) of size 10 crochet cotton</span></li>
<ul type="circle">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level2 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 1.0in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Used for example: Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Cotton (100% mercerized cotton, 350 yd/ball) in 419 Ecru (MC) and 492 Burgundy (CC)</span></li>
</ul>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Four stitch markers</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Two small buttons (I used ¼” buttons)</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Scissors & darning needle</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b> You will need to know:</b></span></div>
<ul type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">How to knit and purl (and how to combine them into K2 P2 rib)</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">How to yo</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">How to pick up stitches along a cast-on edge and a side edge</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The m1p increase</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">How to bind off in rib</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Gauge</b>: 11 sts/per inch in stockinette stitch on size 1-US needles. To ensure accurate sizing, <b>be sure to check your gauge.</b> <br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;"><b>Capelet:</b><br />
With MC, CO 28 sts. P1 row.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">SETUP ROW: k2, yo, PM, k1, yo, k5, yo, PM, k1, yo, k10, yo, PM, k1, yo, k5, yo, PM, k1, yo, k2. P the next row.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Work this row until you have 108 stitches (10 repeats):</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">*K to marker, yo, slip marker, k1, yo, rep from * to last marker, yo, k to end. P all WS rows.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">When you have 108 stitches on the needle (or if you are changing the length of the capelet, when it has reached the length you want), change to CC and k 1 row.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Next row (WS): P3, (k2, p2) to last st, p1.<br />
Next row (RS): k3, (p2, k2) to last st, k1.<br />
Repeat these two rows one more time for a total of 4 rows of ribbing in CC.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Collar:</span></b><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">With RS facing, pick up and knit one stitch for every CO stitch, for a total of 28 sts on the needles.<br />
Increase row: (p4, m1p) to last 4 sts, p4.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Work in k2, p2 rib for about ¾ of an inch or so, or until the collar is the length you want it to be. I wanted mine to stop at the shoulder joint, so I worked 11 rows. It does not matter if you end on a RS or WS row, as long as it looks right to you. BO loosely in rib.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Button Bands:</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Note: if you changed the length of your capelet or collar, you will need to adjust these numbers as well. Just pick up 3 stitches to every 4 rows and try to finagle it into being a multiple of 2.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">LEFT FRONT: with RS facing, pick up and knit 32 stitches along the left front edge. Work 4 rows in 2x2 rib and BO loosely. Mark where you want the two buttons to be (no need to get fancy here).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">RIGHT FRONT: with RS facing, pick up and knit 32 stitches along the right front edge. Work 1 row of 2x2 rib. Work a row of 2x2 rib and when you come to the buttons, yo, k2tog to make buttonholes, working the rest of the row in pattern. Work 2 more rows of 2x2 ribbing and BO loosely.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Weave in all ends, block, and attach buttons where marked.</span></div>Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-10604145531532397812011-10-22T06:00:00.000-05:002011-11-15T14:00:33.268-06:00Knitting Pattern: Stitch & Bitch "That Seventies Poncho" sized for Pullips & Blythe<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Inspired by “That Seventies Poncho” from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Stitch-Bitch-Nation-Debbie-Stoller/dp/0761135901/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1316387434&sr=8-4">Stitch ‘N Bitch Nation, by Debbie Stoller</a>, this retrofabulous accessory will make your Fruit Punch and Pow Wow Poncho girls totally jealous! Just a warning, though – while doll clothes are generally pretty quick to knit, by the time you get to the bottom of this one, it can be a bit exhausting (you might have around 160 stitches on the needles if you follow this pattern verbatim). Luckily, though, it’s STILL only a doll poncho, so it goes quicker than a human version, for sure – and the results are totally worth it. Try it in these fruity brights, or maybe greens-aquas-yellows-and-whites; or pinks-and-purples, for a super-girly look.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Pullip That Seventies Poncho</span> </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></b><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6104/6216454638_58e121c3cd_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6104/6216454638_58e121c3cd_b.jpg" width="265" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Funky color scheme optional. Eve gave me no choice!</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Materials</b>:</span></div>
<ul type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Size 1-US needles (for knitting flat)</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">One ball (you will need far less than a full ball) of size 10 crochet cotton in your choice of colors. Even a solid-colored poncho will not require a full ball.</span></li>
<ul type="circle">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level2 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 1.0in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Used for example: Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Cotton (100% mercerized cotton, 350 yd/ball) in:</span></li>
<ul type="square">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level3 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 1.5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">901 Pagoda Red</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level3 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 1.5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">012 Black</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level3 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 1.5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">493 French Rose</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level3 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 1.5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">431 Pumpkin</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level3 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 1.5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">001 White</span></li>
</ul>
</ul>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Small snap, hook and eye, hook and loop, or closure of your choice</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Scissors & darning needle</span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b>You will need to know:</b></span></div>
<ul type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">How to knit and purl</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">How to m1</span></li>
</ul>
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<b>Gauge</b>: 11 sts/per inch in stockinette stitch on size 1-US needles. To ensure accurate sizing, <b>be sure to check your gauge.<span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></b><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-family: inherit;">Poncho:</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">CO 35 sts. K2 rows.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Next row (RS): k1, m1, k16, m1, pm, k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
P next and all subsequent WS rows.<br />
Next and all subsequent RS rows: k1, m1, k to marker, m1, slip marker, k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Repeat as established (working increase row every RS row and p all WS rows) until you have reached the length you want for your poncho. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The color pattern I used for my poncho, approximating the Stitch & Bitch version, is as follows:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">4 rows red (including the first 2 knit rows), 2 rows black, 4 rows pink, 8 rows orange, 6 rows red, 4 rows white, 10 rows pink, 6 rows red, 6 rows orange, 4 rows black, 2 rows red, 4 rows pink, 2 rows white, 1 row red, and then BO in red.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Block. Using mattress stitch, close back seam about ¾ of the way up. Close the top with a hook and eye or snap.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I did not do a drawstring on my poncho. If you wanted to, add some evenly spaced eyelets (yo, k2tog) around row 3 and weave in a length of crochet chain stitch or braided thread. Also, in the original pattern, there are occasional rows of garter stitch; all you have to do to accomplish this is to knit the occasional WS row.</span></div>Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-55334441036458563182011-10-15T06:00:00.000-05:002011-11-11T02:24:14.458-06:00Knitting Pattern: Off-the-shoulder Top<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Knit entirely in the round (so no seaming! yay!), this easy-peasy top looks super cute and takes practically no time.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Off-the-shoulder Top (Short sleeves)</span></b><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><br /></span></b><br />
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<a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6214/6216456894_55cc9c5c6d_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6214/6216456894_55cc9c5c6d_b.jpg" width="256" /></span></a></div>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></b><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Materials</b>:</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Fingering weight yarn. Used for model: DMC Senso Wool Cotton (70% cotton, 30% wool), color no. 1305, equivalent to size 3 crochet thread. 100% cotton is not recommended, because it knits up thick without stretch. Try very thin sock yarn. You will need far less than one 100 yd (29g) ball</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Two size 1-US circular needles or a set of size 1-US DPNs.</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Darning needle, ruler, and scissors</span></li>
</ul>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">You will need to know:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">How to knit in the round</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">How to work 1x1 ribbing in the round <br />
</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">How to cast on mid-way through a round</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">SSK and K2tog</span></li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">The m1 increase </span></li>
</ul>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Gauge</b>: 10.5 sts/per inch in stockinette stitch on size 1-US needles. To ensure accurate sizing, <b>be sure to check your gauge.</b> </span><br />
<ul></ul>
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Instructions:</span></b><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">CO 36 sts. Being careful not to twist, join for knitting in the round. Work 3 rounds in 1x1 ribbing.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Place marker after first 18 stitches.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Decrease round: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat for back needle.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Work decrease round, then knit one round. Do this four times total, until you have a total of 20 sts on the needles.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">K2 more rounds.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Begin increase rounds to shape for ribcage. Work the following repeat of 3 rounds three times:</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Round 1: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. Repeat for back needle.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Rounds 2 and 3: k all sts.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">You will end this round with 32 sts. At the end of this last round, CO 8 sts. Continue knitting to the next marker and CO 8 more sts. You now have 48 sts. K to end of round. Beginning with the newly CO sts, begin to work in 1x1 ribbing. Work 3 total rounds in 1x1 ribbing. BO all sts.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Stretch the armholes with a larger knitting needle or some other implement roughly the size of a doll arm (i.e., a pinky finger). Weave in the two ends and you’re done!</span>Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-29438287864855557372011-10-08T06:00:00.000-05:002011-10-12T11:08:25.299-05:00Sewing Tutorial: Kindle Book Case<div style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">My attempt at a "book" style cover for Kindle. My sewing skills aren't the very best, but the geometry is correct and a neater seamstress will be able to produce better results.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6209/6209576163_6c04ebc3b1_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6209/6209576163_6c04ebc3b1_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Supplies & materials: </span></div>
<ul style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Mat board OR stiff plastic canvas (if you plan on washing the piece), 2 pieces that measure 8 × 5.5” </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Note: I cut my mat board with a fabric rotary cutter and trimmed it down with a craft knife (like an “X-Acto”). I don’t recommend using scissors on mat board; if you don’t have the necessary tools to cut it, then just use some stiff plastic canvas. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Fat quarter or half yard of your choice of fabric (you can use two fabrics, outer and lining, if you like). Suggested fabrics: cotton solids, calico, denim (outer fabric), PVC/"pleather" (outer fabric) </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">12” of ¼” wide elastic </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Sew-on snap or (weak) magnetic snap closure, hook and loop (Velcro) or button (a button will not allow you to close the “book” backwards; no big deal if you don’t care) </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Felt or thick fabric, 2” by 9” </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Ruler </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Sewing machine, needle appropriate for fabric, and thread </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Iron set to heat setting appropriate for main fabric</span></li>
</ul>
<div style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;">NOTE: ALL SEAM ALLOWANCES SHOULD BE AS CLOSE TO ⅜ AS YOU CAN GET. SEW SLOWLY TO ENSURE ACCURACY AND NEATNESS.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">READ ALL DIRECTIONS BEFORE YOU BEGIN.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Press your fabric and cut out your pattern pieces.</b></span></div>
<ul style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;">
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Outside fabric: 12 ⅝ × 9” (If you are using a different fabric for the outside, use it here. This fabric may be doubled or interfaced if desired. If you double it, baste both pieces together right side in; if you interface it, I recommend medium-weight fusible interfacing.) </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Inside fabric (cut 2): 6 ½ × 9” (These may also be interfaced if you want. I would use lightweight fusible.) I will refer to these pieces as “inside pockets” since they will enclose the mat board/plastic canvas. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Inner pocket (optional) (cut 1): 13 × 6 ½” (will be folded width-wise) </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"> Flap (cut 2 [outer fabric]): Cut an isosceles triangle with the base being 9” long and the height/altitude being 3”. This is most easily accomplished by folding the fabric along the altitude and cutting a triangle that is 3” along the fold and 4 ½” in a right angle from the fold, then connecting the two points via straight line. If you prefer a straight flap or other shape simply cut it to whatever dimensions/shape you like. A round flap would look nice, or you could just make a thin strap, or skip this step altogether if you have another creative idea to keep the whole thing shut.</span></li>
</ul>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX1BAhCzv13hAkfypVj-ZH29LmyI-zh4zOTmDIt_LGBcA0hmMg0KwGC8YuEM5bp4ZES6q6UQoTRWW382HmFXPtzPphl-Zdy56ICK9g4cNConnqyDeqV3vEVr3iXoqpJIoF8plbV_B0Mw8/s320/triangle+diagram.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Diagram to cut out triangle flap. This results in an isosceles triangle described above.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX1BAhCzv13hAkfypVj-ZH29LmyI-zh4zOTmDIt_LGBcA0hmMg0KwGC8YuEM5bp4ZES6q6UQoTRWW382HmFXPtzPphl-Zdy56ICK9g4cNConnqyDeqV3vEVr3iXoqpJIoF8plbV_B0Mw8/s1600/triangle+diagram.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">1.<span style="font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;">Cut 4 pieces of elastic, 3” long each. Do not worry about cutting your felt.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> Press all pieces flat after cutting.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Press one of the longer sides of the pocket piece (the 13 × 6 ½”) under about ⅜”. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6192/6210091720_6d0f170861_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6192/6210091720_6d0f170861_b.jpg" width="290" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;">Press it now width-wise, right sides out, so that it now measures almost 6 ½” square, ensuring that the narrow folded bit is tucked in very neatly. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6113/6209576625_b4953d9b79_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6113/6209576625_b4953d9b79_b.jpg" width="335" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Press in one long side of each inside pocket as close to ⅜” as you can get without burning yourself. If you err, try not to make it wider than ½”.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6093/6209576697_b528f99de1_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="397" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6093/6209576697_b528f99de1_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> Apply fusible interfacing if you choose to do so.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6044/6209572771_7a55bcfd87_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6044/6209572771_7a55bcfd87_z.jpg" width="290" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">With right sides together, stitch along the top edges of the triangle, leaving the base unstitched. Trim the corners close to stitching and turn. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6056/6209572887_7aaf3e9abf_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6056/6209572887_7aaf3e9abf_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Press. Baste along the raw edges of the bottom close to edge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Top stitch close to the folded edge of the inner pocket (not the hemmed edge; sew along the top that will form the top of the pocket itself).</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6117/6209573027_bcd8ceb2f4_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="377" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6117/6209573027_bcd8ceb2f4_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">With <b>right sides together</b>, pin as follows:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Pin each side pocket to the main fabric, having the pressed edges closest to each other.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Pin in the elastic, so that it will catch in the seams, across each corner of the left side pocket, which will be the right pocket when turned right side out.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6118/6210088564_72420171c0_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6118/6210088564_72420171c0_z.jpg" width="361" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">On the other pocket, sandwich inside the inside pocket the flap and inner pocket. The order of fabrics should be:</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Outside fabric</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Flap</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Inner pocket (the square piece that is folded)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Inside pocket (the part that will enclose the board)</span></li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6081/6210088656_4ef1fd36bb_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6081/6210088656_4ef1fd36bb_z.jpg" width="210" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6116/6209573613_6377bcc4c2_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6116/6209573613_6377bcc4c2_z.jpg" width="250" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">For the moment, don’t worry about the gap in between the inner pockets. We’ll take care of that in a minute.</span><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6172/6210089088_487b9ffdc4_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="230" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6172/6210089088_487b9ffdc4_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>This is what it will look like right before you stitch.</i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Stitch carefully around the three pinned sides of the inside pockets.</span><span style="font-size: small;"> Be sure you catch the elastic and all layers while stitching (this is why we need to pin it first).</span><span style="font-size: small;"> Also be sure to leave the two pressed edges unstitched; otherwise you won’t be able to slip in the board! Clip the corners and turn right side out. You can slip in the board to be sure you push everything out completely. Take out the board.</span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6209/6209574029_9bec6d52d7_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6209/6209574029_9bec6d52d7_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Stitched, before turning right side out.</i></span></td></tr>
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Press. I cannot emphasize how important this is! If you are using mat board, you can press while the mat board inside, but do not have your iron hotter than wool, and don’t use steam.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6215/6210089490_c62090f2d6_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="205" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6215/6210089490_c62090f2d6_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Ensure that your pocket comes all the way around. I thought I had stitched it wrong, <br />
but in reality, it just needed a little persuading. Press after you get to this step.</i></td></tr>
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With fine, sharp scissors, clip the piece of back fabric where it attaches to the inside pockets. You will only need to clip it about ⅜”. Pin or press so that the bottom edge is folded, and the raw edge is captured up inside of it. If you look at the photo above, these are the small strips of fabric left in the unstitched area between the two halves, at the top and bottom.</div>
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Take your felt or thick fabric and tuck it inside the area where you can see the back side of the outer fabric. Trim it to fit. We want this to reinforce the hinge area of the cover. It should fit inside the edge of each pocket, up to the pressed area of the gap. After trimming, pin it in place. Be sure you pin the elastic down very securely, and have a little fold at the edge to tuck the raw edge of the elastic down over the folded and pressed portion of the pocket.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6159/6209574373_d7858ce319_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="173" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6159/6209574373_d7858ce319_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>In this view, the mat board has already been inserted as described below.</i></td></tr>
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Carefully slide in your mat board or plastic canvas. It should be a pretty snug fit. If you have any slack, push it to the edges and pin down the inner pockets very close to the edge. If you have a lot of movement and it bothers you, you can turn it back inside out and stitch in a little closer.</div>
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Now for the moment of truth: check the fit of your Kindle. If it fits, close the “book” and wrap the flap around the back. Seriously – guys – do this with your Kindle inside, or it might not fit. Mark the place where the flap needs to go to close snugly.</div>
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<a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6157/6209575027_2c2e116561_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6157/6209575027_2c2e116561_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Take out the fabric and sew on a button, snap, magnetic clasp onto the outer fabric – this is your last chance to do it without the board getting in your way! *Note: due to the nature of the thing you are stitching, which is a pocket, this will suck. Sorry. (If you plan on closing the whole thing with an elastic band, you don’t have to worry about this part.)</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6073/6209574509_75aa37b87e_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="333" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6073/6209574509_75aa37b87e_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The fact that I used a magnetic clasp made it not too bad, since I only had to cut two small slits in the fabric.</i></td></tr>
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Pin in the elastic, folded down, so that it will be caught when you topstitch in the next step.</div>
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Using a zipper foot, topstitch through the inside pockets, through the felt, down to enclose the board. If you don’t feel comfortable using a zipper foot or aren’t sure that you won’t stitch through the mat board or plastic canvas, you can always handstitch.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6188/6209574637_75ca52d10e_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="296" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6188/6209574637_75ca52d10e_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I won't lie, this is the worst part of everything... but it goes by pretty quick.</i></td></tr>
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I would recommended hand stitching the little tiny flaps at the top and bottom of the felt-lined gap. If you are a hoss with the machine, you can machine stitch it. Kudos to your skills! If you hate stitching altogether, just glue it down with some Fray-check or fabric glue. Keep in mind, though, that this might stiffen the “hinge.” I think, in the view above, I just tucked them under the felt, but I prefer for them to be on top of the felt, as I have done on the other two Kindle cases I have made.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6044/6209574809_4e7761082d_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6044/6209574809_4e7761082d_z.jpg" width="388" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Per the "prancing pony" rule, the above mistakes do not technically count.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6114/6210090630_95da19af5f_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6114/6210090630_95da19af5f_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>I glued a button on to hide this.</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6067/6210090484_32aa6bcb92_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6067/6210090484_32aa6bcb92_z.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>See? Much better.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6189/6209575803_bb32e9f264_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6189/6209575803_bb32e9f264_z.jpg" width="393" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>In this view, you can see how a magnetic closure will keep the case open.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The case isn't the most secure out there, but you could make some modifications to change that - such as another elastic band across the area between the screen and the keyboard, or a pocket sewn over the area where the keyboard is and the diagonal elastic on the top corners. In a bookbag, though, it is just fine. I have noticed that my Kindle is surprisingly sturdy, but I do want to keep it from being dinged up and scratched.<br />
<br />
UPDATE: my mom has had this case for several weeks now, and she said that she never has a problem with her device slipping out of it. So maybe it's more secure than it looks!Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-90982837585261331382011-10-03T12:34:00.001-05:002011-11-01T17:06:56.825-05:00Knitting Pattern: Pullip Anthropologie-Inspired CapeletBased on Julia Allen’s Anthropologie-inspired Capelet (Peony Knits designs), available on Ravelry. For more information, see Julia Allen’s blog at <a href="http://peonyknits.blogspot.com/">http://peonyknits.blogspot.com</a>.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Pullip "Anthropologie-Inspired" Capelet</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6158/6215941077_d9687dc36e_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6158/6215941077_d9687dc36e_b.jpg" width="306" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>A brooch used to close this made from an old earring would be a nice touch.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>You will need:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Size 1-US needles: Two DPN’s, straights, or a circular</li>
<li>Size 10 crochet cotton</li>
<ul>
<li>Used for example: Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread (100% mercerized cotton, 350 yd/320m per ball) color 0420 Cream</li>
</ul>
<li>4 very small stitch markers (best bet: tiny jewelry jumprings, available in the jewelry section of many craft stores)</li>
<li>Stitch holders (preferably 2 large safety pins)</li>
<li>A small button or pin, or other closure for the front</li>
<li>Scissors, ruler, & darning needle</li>
</ul>
<b>You will need to know:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>How to knit and purl, and 1x1 rib</li>
<li>How to yo</li>
<li>How to place stitches on a holder and rejoin yarn</li>
<li>How to BO in 1x1 rib</li>
</ul>
<b>Gauge</b>: 11 sts/per inch in stockinette stitch on size 1-US needles. To ensure accurate sizing, <b>be sure to check your gauge.</b><br />
<br />
<b>Note:</b><br />
You will need to have a separate ball of yarn for working the sleeves and body, or two ends from the same ball. Since I work from a ball of crochet thread, I wind about 10 yards of thread onto a bobbin (the small Susan Bates kind, in my favorite color – purple) to hold aside for the sleeves. Cut the yarn, begin the sweater, and you won’t have to break the yarn to work the sleeves and then rejoin it to work the body.<br />
<br />
<b>Capelet:</b><br />
CO 23 sts. K in 1x1 rib for 3 rows.<br />
Place markers: k5, pm, k4, pm, k3, m1, k3, pm, k4, pm, k4.<br />
<br />
Begin raglan increases:<br />
Increase row: k2, *p to marker, yo, slip marker, p1, yo, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.<br />
Next row: K all sts.<br />
<br />
Repeat the above two rows until you have 72 sts on the needles.<br />
<br />
Next row: slip 11 sts onto a spare DPN or stitch holder. <br />
*Rejoin yarn and p 15, turn and k15, then work 3 rows of 1x1 ribbing and BO in rib.<br />
<br />
Slip 20 sts onto spare DPN or stitch holder. Repeat above step (from *) for second sleeve.<br />
<br />
Rejoin all remaining sts onto one needle. Continuing with unbroken yarn:<br />
K2, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p to 1 st before next gap, p2tog, p to last 2 sts, k2.<br />
K one row; p one row.<br />
Work 3 rows of 1x1 ribbing and BO in rib.<br />
Seam sleeves to underarm. Weave in all ends. Block if desired.<br />
Place a button or pin to close the front of the capelet.Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-68721017653741172592010-06-30T05:05:00.003-05:002011-11-15T13:59:31.726-06:00Knitting Pattern: February Pullip SweaterThis pattern has been TRIPLE checked for accuracy: I have made a green sweater, a blue/purple variegated sweater, and a brown sweater for a Dal with a needle one size smaller (for my wonderful Ravelry swap partner, Mimi). It is very easy, provided you are an intermediate knitter with a familiarity working with crochet thread on size 1 needles.<br />
<br />
One final note: if you are lazy (like me) or not a big fan of using dolly-sized buttons (let's face it: who likes jamming a tiny little button into a tiny little hole?) you are welcome to use another closure, like a hook and eyelet (metal, not "velcro") and sew on faux buttons if you want to. <br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>February Pullip Sweater </b></span><br />
Based on the February Lady sweater, available human-sized at <a href="http://www.flintknits.com/blog/?p=151">Flint Knits.</a> <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6104/6216457034_34cf066b24_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6104/6216457034_34cf066b24_b.jpg" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Lillian plays the part of "innocent schoolgirl" pretty convincingly.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Materials</b>:<br />
<ul>
<li>Size 1-US needles (one circular, two DPNs with point protectors, whatever works for you)</li>
<li>One ball (you will need far less than a full ball) of size 10 crochet cotton</li>
<ul>
<li>Used for example: Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Cotton (100% mercerized cotton, 350 yd/ball) in 484 Myrtle Green</li>
</ul>
<li>Three very small buttons</li>
<li>Scissors & darning needle</li>
</ul>
<b><br />
</b><b>You will need to know:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>How to knit and purl</li>
<li>How to decrease: k2tog and ssk</li>
<li>How to yo</li>
<li>Basic familiarity with lace patterns: combining k2tog, ssk, and yo in the same rows (Note: working lace patterns, for me at least, requires an additional level of focus and concentration. Try to work your lace patterns where you would be less distracted than usual, such as while your dear boyfriend watches a particularly boring game of golf on TV)</li>
<li>Garter stitch (knit every row)</li>
<li>The m1 increase</li>
</ul>
<b>Gauge</b>: 11 sts/per inch in stockinette stitch on size 1-US needles. To ensure accurate sizing, <b>be sure to check your gauge.</b><br />
<b> </b> <br />
<b>Note:</b><br />
You will need to have a separate ball of yarn for working the sleeves and body, or two ends from the same ball. Since I usually work from a ball of crochet thread, where only one end is available, I wind about 30 yards of thread onto a bobbin (the small Susan Bates kind, in my favorite color – purple) to hold aside for the sleeves. Cut a separate length of yarn, begin the sweater, and you won’t have to break the yarn to work the sleeves and then rejoin it to work the body.<br />
<b><br />
</b><br />
<b>Gull lace pattern (see above site for source):</b><br />
Row 1: (K1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1) across row.<br />
Rows 2 & 4: p all sts.<br />
Row 3: (k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk) across row.<br />
<b><br />
</b><br />
<b>Sweater:</b><br />
CO 24 sts. K 3 rows.<br />
Work increases according to the following chart. The chart works like this, for row 1:<br />
K4, (m1, k1, m1), k3, (m1, k1, m1), k6, (m1, k1, m1), k3, (m1, k1, m1), k4. The number in the first row is the starting stitch count (not the number of stitches you will end up with). Always k one row after working an increase row.<br />
<br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="8"><tbody>
<tr> <td><b>24</b></td> <td>4</td> <td>3</td> <td>6</td> <td>3</td> <td>4</td> <td>BH</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><b>32</b></td> <td>5</td> <td>5</td> <td>8</td> <td>5</td> <td>5</td> <td><br /></td> </tr>
<tr> <td><b>40</b></td> <td>6</td> <td>7</td> <td>10</td> <td>7</td> <td>6</td> <td><br /></td> </tr>
<tr> <td><b>48</b></td> <td>7</td> <td>9</td> <td>12</td> <td>9</td> <td>7</td> <td>BH</td> </tr>
<tr> <td><b>56</b></td> <td>8</td> <td>11</td> <td>14</td> <td>11</td> <td>8</td> <td><br /></td> </tr>
<tr> <td><b>64</b></td> <td>9</td> <td>13</td> <td>16</td> <td>13</td> <td>9</td> <td><br /></td> </tr>
</tbody></table>
(Please pardon my quite rudimentary HTML skills.)<br />
<br />
For rows ending with the letters BH:<br />
After working the increase row, work a buttonhole row on the WS. K2, yo, k2tog, k to end. <br />
<br />
After you get to 72 sts total, end after one more row (WS).<br />
<br />
Next row: place 11 sts on holder, place 15 sts on spare DPN, place 20 sts on holder, place 15 sts on spare DPN, place 11 sts on holder.<br />
<br />
<b>Sleeves:</b><br />
K2 rows. Only the last 14 sts are worked in pattern, so knit (or slip) every first stitch of every RS row and p every last st on every WS row.<br />
Begin gull lace pattern. Work until the sleeves are nearly desired length (for me, this was just past elbows, and four repeats of the four-row pattern). Work 3 rows of garter st: k next RS row and two more rows, and BO, leaving at least a 12-inch tail to sew seams.<br />
<br />
<b>Resume body of sweater:</b><br />
K all sts onto one needle. Do NOT work two stitches together under each underarm. If you are concerned about gaps under the arms, you may close any hole when seaming the sleeves, or you may pull one stitch through the other and work them in the wrong order (k one st on the other side of the gap, k st before gap). Work buttonhole row next for these sts.<br />
Work these sts in gull lace pattern as well, until the body is almost at the desired length. K 3 rows in garter st again. BO all sts.<br />
<br />
Sew sleeve seams using tails of yarn left from binding off. Weave in all ends. Attach buttons opposite buttonholes. Block.Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-75978578219283044022010-04-24T03:51:00.000-05:002010-04-24T03:51:09.043-05:00So sorry for the delay!Hello lovelies and all interested Pullipers!<br />
<br />
It's been a while - life has been really crazy around here, and between a new dog and preparing to graduate from grad school, I've had hardly any time to craft!<br />
<br />
Luckily I have a good backlog of patterns ready for editing and publishing that I should be able to post without too much more delay.<br />
<br />
Coming soon: my "spring" line of human sweaters sized for Pullips; sewing patterns I'm finally able to scan (at home!), and some goth/punk variations of existing designs to show you, modeled by my Neo Noir, Lillian. <br />
<br />
Stay tuned, and I appreciate your patience. For future reference, I'm not going to shut down this blog without an explanation, so if there is an extended absence, it's very likely a "vacation." :)Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-17762849093916486412010-01-25T07:45:00.006-06:002011-10-04T12:26:01.349-05:00Knitting Pattern: Pullip T-shirtAs promised (if a day late), here is the pattern of the week.<br />
<b> <br />
</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2703/4303831542_68348c8f23_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2703/4303831542_68348c8f23_b.jpg" width="265" /></a></div><b> <br />
</b><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Pullip Raglan T-shirt</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Revised 10/4/11</span><b><br />
</b></span><br />
<b>Materials</b>:<br />
<ul><li>Size 10 crochet thread. Used for example: J&P Coats Royale Crochet Thread (100% mercerized cotton, 350 yd/320m) in 493 French Rose.</li>
<li>Size 1-US needles, straight, circular, or a pair of DPN's<br />
</li>
<li>One long stitch holder, three safety pins, or two double-pointed needles (in addition to needles above) <br />
</li>
<li>2 stitch markers</li>
<li>Scissors, ruler, darning needle</li>
<li>Yarn bobbin (not crucial) <br />
</li>
</ul><b>You will need to know:</b><br />
<ul><li>How to knit, purl, and work in both garter stitch and stockinette stitch</li>
<li>How to ssk, k2tog, and m1</li>
</ul><b>Gauge</b>: 11 sts/per inch in stockinette stitch on size 1-US needles. To ensure accurate sizing, <b>be sure to check your gauge.</b> <br />
<ul></ul>Note: wind about 5 yd of thread onto a bobbin for sleeves before beginning.<br />
<br />
CO 33 sts.<br />
K 2 rows. P 1 row.<br />
<br />
Begin raglan increases.<br />
K according to chart below, working (m1, k1, m1) between each set of numbers:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Y9iy4cEk6pS1yALfcZatbaxhr_2OuckbM3f9sjb0p3i5ObvZBrjl-rsbocY5WVH3FGAlJafCRC-Tq-9YR_kod1Vm4N89udu11yAzB4DFj_7hmwOKWTwTpnOWPMymJn25QUpDzQvG62c/s1600/Pullip+Raglan+Math.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI7pg-M0lLwmZo5oHfaTyX5bmFkOvwfPO3_k7oRXgj-1d6BjVKLKNWjHnUgcDIBAR0KwbwCGgOkKjlHo9jgJa7Lr-l4oFvhb8uEbDu8jUdkHy01F0WYSIAupwvgBgiaFR4NhuQcogQVwI/s1600/Pullip+Raglan+Math.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI7pg-M0lLwmZo5oHfaTyX5bmFkOvwfPO3_k7oRXgj-1d6BjVKLKNWjHnUgcDIBAR0KwbwCGgOkKjlHo9jgJa7Lr-l4oFvhb8uEbDu8jUdkHy01F0WYSIAupwvgBgiaFR4NhuQcogQVwI/s320/Pullip+Raglan+Math.PNG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Click the image to view a larger version.</span></i></div><br />
I am going to include instructions for a baggier sweater as well (the second set up numbers, in parentheses). This might fit Barbie; if you have a chance to try it, please let me know. <br />
<br />
Once you have 73(81) sts on the needles, p 1 row.<br />
<br />
Divide for sleeves: slip 11(13) sts onto holder, set 15(17) sts aside on a DPN or another holder, slip 21(23) sts onto holder, set aside 15(17) sts, slip 11(13) sts onto holder.<br />
<br />
Work sleeves: join yarn from bobbin to each set of 15(17) sts, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 2 rows, BO in k.<br />
<br />
Continue where you left off from the body sts: k10, k2tog, k19, k2tog, k10. 41 sts.*<br />
<br />
For a classic t-shirt shape (as shown), continue straight for the length desired, k 2 rows, and BO.<br />
<br />
For a shaped t-shirt, continue as follows:<br />
Set-up row (after row marked with *): p10, place marker, p21, place marker, p10. Work 2 rows even.<br />
<br />
Row 1: K to marker, slip marker, ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k to end.<br />
Row 2: P all sts.<br />
Row 3: K to 2 sts before marker, ssk, slip marker, k to next marker, slip marker, k2tog, k to end.<br />
Row 4: P all sts.<br />
<br />
Rep above 4 rows once more. 33 sts.<br />
<br />
K 1 row, p 1 row. (Leave markers in place.)<br />
<br />
Begin increases for hips: *K to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1, rep from * once, k to end.<br />
P next row.<br />
<br />
Repeat this row until you have 45 sts (three repeats of the above two rows). K 2 rows. BO. Sew sleeve seams. Weave in all ends. Sew snaps onto the back (or, be like me, and pin the shirt on so that you can quickly photograph it!).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4303079631_f4d02fa441_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4303079631_f4d02fa441_b.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-59201187832772971022010-01-21T14:23:00.001-06:002011-10-04T12:22:36.575-05:00New Pullip: Meet EveHello all!<br />
Just a quick update. I've actually gotten two Pullips since the beginning of the year, but Lillian (Neo Noir) is shy and doesn't want her pictures up until she has a respectable goth wardrobe. Here is Eva, my rewigged Celsiy! (I'm not sure if she will be keeping her type 3 body, though. We'll see.)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLA-lN30XOEMZB4opF_oxY06r1ymt338-EALjbbie4cGUgK1ISPtdpibM35nzC0-6NUaagXb3KcNwZAm3z9Zyrc12tVXU1dZxpIMu1ejzPzxHR2eK8h0ZSfod3L9TL0KJVYselsEATSEM/s1600-h/DSC_0104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLA-lN30XOEMZB4opF_oxY06r1ymt338-EALjbbie4cGUgK1ISPtdpibM35nzC0-6NUaagXb3KcNwZAm3z9Zyrc12tVXU1dZxpIMu1ejzPzxHR2eK8h0ZSfod3L9TL0KJVYselsEATSEM/s400/DSC_0104.JPG" width="266" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2p2k4GliHFcC9mMVezlq4VvOogLflQMCud02QVtGC6kyRo8Ns83c1zt4li93PxftMBTtvS6Q1_SlZG4vz2XNFCMxr3j0UW4ahGxsZaweZ-q1uSORCdoWP8Ia1lxYxQAwTJb-EelW7Gc0/s1600-h/DSC_0103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2p2k4GliHFcC9mMVezlq4VvOogLflQMCud02QVtGC6kyRo8Ns83c1zt4li93PxftMBTtvS6Q1_SlZG4vz2XNFCMxr3j0UW4ahGxsZaweZ-q1uSORCdoWP8Ia1lxYxQAwTJb-EelW7Gc0/s400/DSC_0103.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Patterns are coming soon; I'm just waiting on a couple of designers to give permission for me to post miniature versions of their patterns, and of course there will be a few originals too. I also have some sewing patterns that I'm working on finishing up, including a modified version of PuchiCollective's pants, an original kimono, a pleated skirt, an A-line Lolita skirt, and a couple of blouses. I have a few knit pieces to finish up and then I will be posting pictures AND patterns at the same time! Expect a post by this weekend!Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-65573987541658668972010-01-11T18:07:00.000-06:002011-10-12T16:44:26.527-05:00Update on Plans for SpringYALLOO!!!!<br />
<br />
It's been a while since I've posted, and for good reason: I'm entering my last semester of grad school, and finals through December were pretty brutal since I took 17 hours. Mark my words: DO. NOT. DO. THAT.<br />
<br />
Anyway, I have big plans for this blog in the coming months. I've ordered a good bit of supplies from Knitpicks (including new needles to replace the ones I have used into tarnish and even destroyed). Even using what I have around the house, I have knitted a fair number of pieces that sit next to me in various states of finish: a red and white striped minidress, a bra top, shrug, cardi's... lots of ends to weave in! What I intend to do is this: knit Pullip-sized versions of popular Ravelry and Knitty designs, kindly ask for permission to post the Pullip patterns from designers, and then release the patterns on here. At the very least, I think I can post pictures of the finished products, even without permission (since presumably the designer would allow me to post a picture of their design on a human), so at least there will be pictures as soon as I go on the massive finishing spree required to get these pieces (including the older, already-posted pieces that have yet to be finished) photo-ready.<br />
<br />
Good news too: Christmas (or rather, New Year's) yielded a fantastic new friend - Neo Noir, who I've named Lillian. I LOVE this doll - I was a little Gothy in high school and she is unmistakably Goth with that cat-eye makeup and deep red eyes. Lillian opens up all kinds of opportunities for me to knit: where Lenore is usually bright and sunny but sometimes conservative (a kind of amalgam of my sister's and my styles), Lillian is dark, demure, (dare I say sexy?) and certainly not afraid to show a little skin. Where it feels strange dressing Lenore in revealing styles, it feels natural with Lillian. So the plans are to post some patterns in that direction - lingerie, micro-miniskirts, corset styling, and deep jewel tones.<br />
<br />
Finally, I have a great modified pattern that the Puchi Collective has graciously given me permission to post: Pullip pants. Since school is starting soon, I should be able to get access to a scanner (when the lab isn't busy, which it shouldn't be early on in the semester) and post that as a .pdf (no resizing needed).<br />
<br />
So please, stay tuned and bear with me!Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-39619051189804691642009-12-01T09:31:00.008-06:002011-10-04T11:48:05.667-05:00Knitting Pattern: Flat-Knit Fingerless GlovesI don't do a lot of wearables, but when I do, I prefer accessories because of their small size and instant gratification.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLWpwgwD_BzIeaAW4ut7MJyfzk9h6U-FK-uLk3bWE5gHT6LXczoVreXh6PuBcXqykgqjYNGsNQtjW8VpCBGARPcj5wJOGvPu_qD-xYFHguZE-KLkXLY0Gw7Fegt8z6ZEhiLRCCo8Crebs/s1600-h/KFG1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLWpwgwD_BzIeaAW4ut7MJyfzk9h6U-FK-uLk3bWE5gHT6LXczoVreXh6PuBcXqykgqjYNGsNQtjW8VpCBGARPcj5wJOGvPu_qD-xYFHguZE-KLkXLY0Gw7Fegt8z6ZEhiLRCCo8Crebs/s320/KFG1.jpg" /></a></div>This pattern arose out of the desire to help my uncle. He severed his ulnar nerve in a tiling accident and since then has endured what he describes as "pins and needles" in his left hand. The pain worsens when anything touches the area affected - right beneath his palm. For a long time, he wore garden gloves and bandage wraps to shield the area, until I became a knitter. This design has evolved through several yarns, gauges, and thumb-hole incarnations. First it was worsted yarn on size 6's, then on size 5's, without thumbs; then I started to crochet thumb holes; then I worked in mercerized sport-weight on size 4's; then finally I figured out how to add a knitted thumb gusset. Always knit (by me, at least) in 100% cotton, they are washable, inexpensive, easy, and quick - so he never has less than several pairs at hand.<br />
<br />
These gloves are reversible, so you could easily work an identical pair and not have to worry about right and left. They are customizable, so you could knit them with a decorative stitch or cable if you wanted. And finally, even though I knit them in the flat, you could very easily adapt them to knitting in the round (just subtract two stitches from the cast-on total). Best of all, these only take a couple of hours per pair and would make super easy last-minute gifts!!!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Yi3WNZoleFqxoz8i_L-ht7wjTQjCe4RXi3tvfmPcyW8N-J_CoUk2GRPZOONj5WamyhmApFjoNVUd3JqyyvwlecV5Lr2Crr8RpBqjUpgwtNfs1YTuJZbXYZq3WS4sXwqCZSVSvRYuO60/s1600-h/KFG2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Yi3WNZoleFqxoz8i_L-ht7wjTQjCe4RXi3tvfmPcyW8N-J_CoUk2GRPZOONj5WamyhmApFjoNVUd3JqyyvwlecV5Lr2Crr8RpBqjUpgwtNfs1YTuJZbXYZq3WS4sXwqCZSVSvRYuO60/s200/KFG2.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxu0JCW6D1_HDIlGKCsTZBDv5ASR3mGrScwhkEUvehRpVC749BzaNBcw5PwpDr-el4OFF4RE90LdvcUs2XaVWl6Fxq9AIsuoNmK8UFw-TG5Pq6kVqcoJguKe_wOkWJC9uf-NfKVFcxV7I/s1600-h/KFGpalm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxu0JCW6D1_HDIlGKCsTZBDv5ASR3mGrScwhkEUvehRpVC749BzaNBcw5PwpDr-el4OFF4RE90LdvcUs2XaVWl6Fxq9AIsuoNmK8UFw-TG5Pq6kVqcoJguKe_wOkWJC9uf-NfKVFcxV7I/s200/KFGpalm.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmLjmUW103dlr47TAnQeWmibnarmwKaXTIVoghPgKaZhXSzbZXZi4nSFpCMR9c0WtyB9NR7v9tuCE8sreOJAg2hgM5eIC_Pk-r_jt8j-OfgNUc_qmXEjPj1VJk7fY7eYIoMTOktsaOAdA/s1600-h/KFGthumb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmLjmUW103dlr47TAnQeWmibnarmwKaXTIVoghPgKaZhXSzbZXZi4nSFpCMR9c0WtyB9NR7v9tuCE8sreOJAg2hgM5eIC_Pk-r_jt8j-OfgNUc_qmXEjPj1VJk7fY7eYIoMTOktsaOAdA/s200/KFGthumb.jpg" /></a></div><b>Kenny's Fingerless Gloves</b><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>You will need:</b><br />
</span> <br />
<ul><li><span style="font-size: small;">Size 4 US needles, double-pointed with point protectors (in addition to set below), one circular, or straight</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Size 4 US needles, double-pointed, set of 2, or spare circular<br />
</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">One Size 6 US needle, any type, for cast-on and bind-off (you want a stretchy edge) <br />
</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">DK-weight yarn, approximately 45-55 yards per glove - medium size<br />
</span></li>
<ul><li><span style="font-size: small;">I use Omega Sinfonia, available in 100g/3.52 oz. balls at Hobby Lobby. This yarn has a nice put-up at 200m/218 yds., has a nice range of colors, a crisp hand, and is machine washable. I get four medium sized gloves out of one ball, if I'm lucky. My gloves in this yarn weigh up at about 21g apiece; the best way you can check is to weigh your completed glove (metric is more accurate) and compare that against the ball total. I use a food scale.<br />
</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">If you plan on using wool, I recommend <a href="http://www.knitpicks.com/yarns/Swish_DK_Yarn__D5420168.html">Knitpicks Swish DK</a>. This yarn is soft, washable, and will knit to gauge.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Note: you will need a traditional ball with two ends you can work simultaneously, or otherwise you will need 2 balls. If this is not possible, try winding a small bobbin with about 3 yards of yarn. You will knit the thumb without breaking the main yarn.<b> </b></span></li>
</ul><li><span style="font-size: small;">Scissors & ruler (or double-pointed needle to measure length; or your own hand)<br />
</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Darning needle large enough to accommodate sport-weight yarn</span></li>
</ul><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>You will need to know:</b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<ul><li><span style="font-size: small;">Cast-on</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Regular, stretchy (see link), or <a href="http://knitty.com/ISSUEsummer06/FEATsum06TT.html">sewn bind-off</a> (scroll to bottom of page - "Elizabeth Zimmerman's Sewn Bind-off")</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Garter stitch</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Stockinette Stitch</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Make 1, abbreviate m1</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Slip 1 pwise </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Mattress stitch</span></li>
</ul><br />
<ul></ul><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Gauge</b>: Between 6.5 and 7 stitches per inch in stockinette stitch </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Sizing is as follows</b>: S(M, L, XL)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">S: Child's large/women's small</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">M: Women's Medium/Men's Small<br />
L: Women's Large/Men's Medium</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">XL: Men's Large<br />
</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Fingerless Gloves:</b> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Using larger needle, CO </span>36(40, 44, 48) sts.<br />
<br />
Slip every first stitch of every row pwise. <br />
K 4 rows.<br />
P 1 row.<br />
Begin stockinette stitch: k next row, p next row. Work in this way for about 2.5(3, 3.5, 4) inches. End with a p row.<br />
<br />
Begin thumb gusset:<br />
K across half the stitches - 18(20, 22, 24) sts - and m1; k to end.<br />
P the next row and all subsequent WS rows.<br />
<br />
Next row: k 18(20, 22, 24), m1, k1, m1, k to end.<br />
Next RS row: k 18(20, 22, 24), m1, k3, m1, k to end.<br />
Next RS row: k 18(20, 22, 24), m1, k5, m1, k to end.<br />
Next RS row: k 18(20, 22, 24), m1, k7, m1, k to end.<br />
If you would like to use markers, put them on either side of the first stitch increase, and subsequently increase <i>inside</i> the stitch markers.<br />
FYI if you are embellishing with cables or otherwise need to know: the first 18(20, 22, 24) stitches are the back of the right hand, the second 18(20, 22, 24) stitches are the back of the left hand. <br />
Continue in this way, increasing the number of stitches knit between the increases by 2 every time. You will never change the outside sts. Stop when you have 53(59, 65, 71) sts total on the needle; p the next row.<br />
Note: if you are making a larger or smaller glove, increase more stitches or stop sooner in this same pattern. <br />
<br />
Knit thumb:<br />
Slip 18(20, 22, 24) sts onto spare DPN (or spare circular); slip 17(19, 21, 23) sts onto the needle you wish to work from; slip rem sts onto another spare DPN (or circular). You will now work the sts for the thumb.<br />
Join yarn from other end of ball or second ball. Work 5(6, 7, 7) rows in stockinette stitch; this comes to about mid-thumb; work more or less rows if desired. BO with stretchy or sewn BO, or with needle 2 sizes larger than the one you used to achieve gauge.<br />
<br />
Continue knitting for hand:<br />
Using the unbroken yarn, continue knitting the hand. Pull the yarn tightly when you join across the thumb gap.<br />
Continue knitting for 1" or so, or until you are satisfied with the length of the glove, minus about a half inch. K 3 rows and BO using stretchy or sewn BO. If you don't know how to do one or the other, BO with a needle 2 sizes larger.<br />
<br />
Seam the thumb using mattress stitch. Try to make it as neat as possible. You may need to use a few small stitches to close the hole left at the bottom of the thumb (I always do). Seam the side using mattress stitch. Do not use a whip-stitch as this will be too bulky. Make another glove the same way; keep in mind that if you embellish, you may need to reverse the pattern so you have a right and left glove. Weave in ends and toss in the washing machine; lay flat to dry.<br />
<br />
Notes for knitting in the round: CO sts as above minus 2; k 1 round, p 1 round for 4 rounds, k all rounds for same length as above, work thumb increases as set, work thumb as set or place on waste yarn and work later, k all rounds for 1", k 1 round, p 1 round for 4 rows and BO. You can work the thumb flat or in the round as well.<br />
<br />
Ideas for embellishment: embroidery; slip-stitches; color-work; brocade stitches; 4-st cables or 6-cable across back of hand (p 2 sts on either side of the cable, or work the glove in reverse stockinette st). If you decide to add cables, consider adding at least 2 extra stitches to the cabled panel (first or last half of stitches, the same as where the cables are to be worked) or more, if you work several cables, to account for "pulling in" and decreased stretchiness from cables. Work ribbing instead of garter stitch. Or try an edging in moss/seed stitch (but work on a needle 1 size smaller).Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-91797921112946219342009-11-19T08:52:00.005-06:002011-11-15T13:59:01.832-06:00Knitting Pattern: Pullip Legwarmers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvGfpNQs3NUvxp4iMol1-y_aUh7o065Bx4StBS2LaIHLQ0nSGIeuqVcXRBKxb2qHNh_GINqD1NbXdkYJjKn1mOTITvr98Bkg83u5jUesS6j0vyYYMYMP9T5owdyKBlIVHACiG4ZM2yU9s/s1600/DSC_0006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvGfpNQs3NUvxp4iMol1-y_aUh7o065Bx4StBS2LaIHLQ0nSGIeuqVcXRBKxb2qHNh_GINqD1NbXdkYJjKn1mOTITvr98Bkg83u5jUesS6j0vyYYMYMP9T5owdyKBlIVHACiG4ZM2yU9s/s400/DSC_0006.JPG" width="266" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">A pretty simple pattern for doll legwarmers. Obviously these will fit almost any doll. Super easy, super quick, super cute - I made these when I was chit-chatting with my mother-in-law and didn't have my Pullip.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Pullip Legwarmers</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>You will need:</b></span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Size 1 US needles, douple-pointed with point protectors, one circular, or straight<b> </b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Small amount of crochet thread, laceweight yarn, or other very thin yarn - under 50 yards</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">About 15" of 1/8" wide satin ribbon</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Scissors & ruler</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Darning needle (#22 tapestry)</span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>You will need to know:</b></span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">Cast on, bind off, knit, purl, stockinette stitch, and 1x1 rib</span></li>
</ul>
<b>Gauge: 11 sts/per inch in stockinette stitch on size 1-US needles.</b> To ensure accurate sizing, <b>be sure to check your gauge.</b><span style="font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Legwarmers:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">CO 20 sts. Work 4 rows in 1x1 rib.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Work in stockinette stitch for the length of your doll's leg, from knee to heel. Yes - all the way; you'll add a little more ribbing so they are "slouchy."</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Work 4 more rows in 1x1 rib. BO loosely, leaving a long tail to seam. Weave in loose ends. Block lightly if desired.<br />
</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Seam up the back of the legs preferably using <a href="http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring04/mattress.html">mattress stitch</a> if possible.<br />
</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Using the ribbon, thread through in the last round of ribbing or the first round of stockinette (whatever stitches stick out more). Thread the ribbon through the tapestry needle and start at the front (opposite your seam). Leaving a couple inches of ribbon sticking out, do a running stitch through those stitches: under the knit stitches and in front of the purl stitches (try to stay consistent on the same row). Go all the way around the back and come out the front. Cut the ribbon at an angle and tie in a bow (if you aren't lazy like me, you can try this with matching sewing thread and make it extra-secure). Repeat for the other leg.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">If you don't have ribbon, try doing stripes every 2 rows. If you only use 2 colors, you won't have to weave in the ends if you carry them up the sides very neatly.</span>Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-40806296935957598352009-11-18T22:33:00.003-06:002011-10-12T16:46:35.909-05:00Knitting Pattern: Off-the-shoulder Sweater for PullipHere is a very simple pattern for an off-the-shoulder sweater, based on <a href="http://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter04/PATTtempting.html">Knitty's Tempting</a> by Jenna Adorno (one of my favorite sweaters of all time). I made the sleeves longer and did it in stockinette stitch rather than her ribbed style, and removed the ribbon (it's about time I started adding some conservative pieces to Lenore's wardrobe). If you want to add a ribbon, simply weave it through the bottom of the top edge of ribbing (1/8" ribbon works best). Eyelets are not necessary.<br />
<br />
You will need to know how to knit in the round; knowing how to knit both on DPN's and two circulars will make this easier (sleeves on the DPN's and the body and yoke on two circulars). Because of the small size, this probably isn't a good project to learn; but other than the tiny-size factor, it's a piece o' cake. A couple of really good tutorials are linked in the "You will need to know" section.<br />
<br />
The sleeves and body are each knit seamlessly in one piece, then the stitches are all transferred to the same needle and the ribbed yoke is finished. There is subtle waist shaping, but nothing form-fitting to the degree of the <a href="http://mnordyke.blogspot.com/2009/10/introductory-post-pssh.html">Strapless Top</a>. Bonus: there is NO sewing other than tiny underarm seams. That means no evil snaps to have to sew on!!! <br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Off-the-shoulder Sweater</b></span><br />
<b>You will need:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>One ball of fingering weight yarn, preferably <a href="http://www.knitpicks.com/yarns/Sock_Knitting_Yarn__L300106.html">sock yarn</a>; I used Knitpicks Essential (now <a href="http://www.knitpicks.com/yarns/Stroll_Sock_Yarn__D5420133.html">Knitpicks Stroll</a>) in a brown ombre that has been discontinued. You will not need the entire (probably not even a fourth) ball. Stroll is a great yarn because it is very evenly spun, has a fantastic hand, and isn't too fuzzy.</li>
<li>Two circular knitting needles and six double-pointed needles, all in size 1 US. (You can get away with just having four DPN's if you have two stitch markers large enough to hold about three inches of stitches each)</li>
<li>Scissors & ruler<br />
</li>
<li>Small darning needle (with fingering weight, you could probably use a size 22 tapestry needle, available in the embroidery section of most craft stores)</li>
</ul>
<b>You will need to know:</b> <br />
<ul>
<li>Knit in the round: <a href="http://knitty.com/ISSUEsummer03/FEATtheresa.html">Double-pointed needles tutorial</a> and <a href="http://nonaknits.typepad.com/nonaknits/2005/10/two_circular_ne.html">Two-Circular tutorial</a> may help</li>
<li>1x1 ribbing</li>
<li>Casting on and Binding off. Three needle bind off preferable for underarm seams (see below for tutorial link)<br />
</li>
<li>SSK and K2tog <br />
</li>
</ul>
<b>Sweater Instructions</b><br />
Body:<br />
CO 36 sts. Divide evenly on two circular needles - 18 sts each.<br />
Join, being careful not to twist. Work 2 rounds in 1x1 ribbing.<br />
Begin working in stockinette stitch. You will shape the waist.<br />
Round 1 (after ribbing) and all odd rows: knit.<br />
Round 2: ssk, k to end of first needle, ssk, k to end of second needle.<br />
Round 4: k to last 2 sts, k2tog, k to last 2 sts on second needle, k2tog.<br />
Round 6: repeat round 2.<br />
<br />
K all sts for .5".<br />
<br />
Begin increasing for bust:<br />
Round 1: m1, k to end of first needle, m1, k to end of second needle.<br />
Round 2 and all even rounds: k all sts.<br />
Round 3: k to end of first needle, m1, k to end of second needle, m1.<br />
Round 5: repeat round 1.<br />
You now have 30 sts again. K until piece measures 1.5", then break yarn and put on DPN's or holder (if you choose a holder, put all the front stitches on one holder and the back stitches on another).<br />
<br />
Sleeves:<br />
CO 12 stitches.<br />
<ul>
<li>I find the best tension results if I work the first 3 rounds or so on two circulars, but then switch to DPN's. If you feel like you knit best on two circulars, by all means; I just find all the sliding for six stitch gets annoying.</li>
</ul>
Distribute the stitches evenly on the needles: six on the front circular and six on the back, or four on each of a set of three DPN's. Join, being careful not to twist. Work 2 rows in 1x1 ribbing.<br />
Begin stockinette stitch: knit every round. Work for 2.5", or length desired (measured from underarm to where you want the bottom of the sleeve to be; suggested measurements: long sleeve, 2.5"; mid-forearm, 1.75"; elbow, 1"; short-sleeve, 5").<br />
<br />
First sleeve: break yarn and put on two spare DPNs or two holders (half the stitches on one holder and half the stitches on the other).<br />
Work a second stitch the exact same way as the first, except do NOT break yarn.<br />
<br />
Slip the stitches from the holders onto the two circulars: one sleeve, then the body, then the last sleeve with the unbroken yarn between the two needles. To make the underarms easier, try to work the ends so that the cut end on one sleeve touches the body, and the body cut end is touching the second sleeve (that way you can use the tails to seam the underarms). Work the yoke as follows:<br />
First needle: Slip 4 stitches pwise, slip 2 onto waste yarn, slip 2 of body stitches on waste yarn, slip all body stitches except last 2, slip those onto waste yarn, slip first 2 sleeve stitches onto waste yarn, slip 4.<br />
Second needle: repeat as for first needle.<br />
<br />
Note: avoid gaps at the underarms by taking two stitches together on either side of the gap. This means you will k1, p1, k1, p2tog, rib across front of body 'til the gap, k2tog, p1, k1, p1. Repeat for the back.<br />
Work 4 rounds of 1x1 ribbing and BO off loosely (i.e. with a size 2 needle).<br />
<br />
Join the four stitches at the underarm securely. Try a <a href="http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall06/FEATfall06TT.html">three-needle bind off</a> by picking up the stitches left on the waste yarn and being very careful; to get the yarn at the end of the 4 stitches, I had to knit two stitches. Or you could wing it with a crochet hook. If you have holes at the joins, stitch them closed with another piece of yarn (or the leftover), or more preferably, invisible thread or embroidery floss. I only had a hole in the front of one side.<br />
<br />
Steam-block or pin & spritz. <a href="http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter02/FEATdiyknitter.html">Here</a> is a good tutorial for lots of different kinds of blocking. Honestly, I usually just use pin & spritz or wet blocking (soak garment, squeeze in a towel, pin on a blocking board, put under a ceiling fan overnight). Blocking helps even out your stitches, which is fantastic for people like me with slightly uneven tension. It isn't necessary, and frankly I don't do it every time because of the waiting factor, but it will make your garments look better.<br />
<br />
A few WIP pics:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDUxJdEgahN3tsd-L_PEIcJqacxh9AwKn8Izdjn55k7Hc-i4RgCWtY56lqjFN3J7RHPpuzun_d37cc11O61VNzm-Xbv7_d9vQjI-HmnEB0PLS1h-7gjz4gxFZ3jXwo7CV5O328rQNEI9c/s1600/DSC_0002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDUxJdEgahN3tsd-L_PEIcJqacxh9AwKn8Izdjn55k7Hc-i4RgCWtY56lqjFN3J7RHPpuzun_d37cc11O61VNzm-Xbv7_d9vQjI-HmnEB0PLS1h-7gjz4gxFZ3jXwo7CV5O328rQNEI9c/s320/DSC_0002.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGLBBQCWvm5Q3vJfY3EkLoSQhllre-KJudnKlMxAKb5PglTyVLc8_AHsJ7-BknureVxEI2qsq0rwOkJseWLgdeIm5mJcH2gto1kW8rt8qtho9_TPzWEblYxxEYZ0JhLvhrzQ6pTrQSvBQ/s1600/DSC_0007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGLBBQCWvm5Q3vJfY3EkLoSQhllre-KJudnKlMxAKb5PglTyVLc8_AHsJ7-BknureVxEI2qsq0rwOkJseWLgdeIm5mJcH2gto1kW8rt8qtho9_TPzWEblYxxEYZ0JhLvhrzQ6pTrQSvBQ/s320/DSC_0007.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuJvX46M1kCUiqDu8M4VKIHh0yMpBE9TJ5t9GU4kAAu5Olkn5pVrc7klV4_OP_GRelCn06LaRH88bcDLcdXCJcdBKlUnPvesqayIt9wZI5fr3MGYSId0QSVI6dMiv039-0EMovFkHxxt0/s1600/DSC_0009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuJvX46M1kCUiqDu8M4VKIHh0yMpBE9TJ5t9GU4kAAu5Olkn5pVrc7klV4_OP_GRelCn06LaRH88bcDLcdXCJcdBKlUnPvesqayIt9wZI5fr3MGYSId0QSVI6dMiv039-0EMovFkHxxt0/s320/DSC_0009.JPG" /></a></div>Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-55878112206304626372009-11-17T10:03:00.010-06:002011-10-04T11:50:15.130-05:00Knitting Pattern: Pullip HoodieAt long last, I give you a pattern for a functional Pullip hoodie. Since I don’t own a Blythe doll (yet), I’m not sure how this will fit her (my suggestion would be to scale the needles up* a size; bonus points if you can use half sizes). You will need to know how to do a provisional cast on and graft stitches; the upside is that you will not have to sew the hood together with a bulky seam! If you plan on keeping the hood down for pictures, I would either recommend making a second “non-functional” hoodie (i.e. one with a proportional-sized hood) and one like this; if you have one of each then you can have some interesting pictures!<br />
<br />
Although I do say that you need circular and double-pointed needles, there is no circular knitting and almost no sewing. Second, where I normally slip every first stitch of every row (with the exception of rows beginning with decreases), I’m not so sure that’s helpful here since you will be picking up stitches all the way around the front edge, and this particular can make that more difficult. Your edge stitches don’t have to look neat anyway since you will be hiding them! Finally, I did not include gauge (I almost never do; I knit normally, not loosely or tightly) because any gauge differences are going to be minute. If you knit especially loosely or tightly, you might consider changing your needle size up or down, but that may cause a drastic change in size; unless you can get your hands on half sizes (<a href="http://www.knitpicks.com/">Knitpicks</a> has them; I shamelessly promote that site because they are AWESOME) then you might want to use a stretchy yarn like sock yarn and just block the crap out of the finished piece.<br />
<br />
*Edit as of 10/4/11: It has come to my attention that Blythe dolls are larger than Pullips. This has been edited accordingly.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Pullip Hoodie (with functional hood)</span></b><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Revised January 13, 2010</span><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span></b><br />
<b>You will need</b>:<br />
<ul><li>Circular needles (recommended length: 24”) – sizes 1 US, 2 US, and 3 US</li>
<li>Double-pointed needles (set of 3): size 1 US</li>
<li>Crochet hook, size F-5 US (if you do a provisional crochet cast on)</li>
<li>Scissors & a ruler<br />
</li>
<li>Blunt-tipped tapestry needle (I used one just larger than a #22; make sure yours isn’t too big or grafting and seaming will be a pain)</li>
<li>Smooth (cotton) waste yarn for provisional cast on</li>
<li>Snaps, hooks and eyes, or the closure or your choice </li>
<li>Sock or sport weight yarn; used for example: Knitpicks Palette Fingering Weight (100% Peruvian highland wool, 231 yd/50g ball) in 2200 Fairy Tale</li>
<ul><li><i>A note about yarn: Pullip clothes are forgiving since, well, their owners will not be using them the same way a human does. Although I used a bit thicker cotton yarn here, your choices are almost limitless, as long as the yarn is thinner than sportweight. <a href="http://www.knitpicks.com/yarns/Sock_Knitting_Yarn__L300106.html"> Sock yarn </a>would be perfect; it’s going to end up a little smaller, but that is what blocking is for. Stretch sock yarn hoodies a little when you block them, and the stitches will open up nicely and drape well. This is a perfect end for that last odd ball of sock yarn you had leftover from the 2 ½ balls you used to knit dad’s socks for Christmas.</i></li>
</ul></ul><b>You will need to know</b>:<br />
<ul><li>Stockinette stitch</li>
<li>Garter stitch</li>
<li><a href="http://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter04/FEATwin04TT.html">Pick up & knit stitches</a></li>
<li>Provisional cast-on (I recommend the <a href="http://bellaknitting.typepad.com/bella_knitting/2007/10/provisional-cas.html">crochet chain</a> method; <a href="http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall05/FEATfall05TT.html">Knitty </a>has another option)</li>
<li><a href="http://knitty.com/ISSUEsummer04/FEATtheresasum04.html">Kitchener stitch/grafting</a></li>
<li>1x1 ribbing</li>
<li>K2tog</li>
<li>SSK (slip 1 kwise, slip 1 pwise, insert left tip into back of stitches and knit)</li>
</ul><br />
<b>Hoodie:</b><br />
Provisionally cast on 50 stitches. This will be picked out later and you will knit the other way from the live stitches.<br />
Using size 3 needles, knit for 3.25” straight in stockinette stitch.<br />
<br />
<b>Begin neck decreases</b> (you will go from 50 sts to 25 sts):<br />
Row 1: k2tog, (k6, k2tog) 6 times. 43 sts.<br />
Row 2 and all even rows: P all sts.<br />
Row 3: k1, (k5, k2tog) 6 times. 37 sts.<br />
Row 5: k1, (k4, k2tog) 6 times. 31 sts.<br />
Row 7: k1, (k3, k2tog) 6 times. 25 sts.<br />
Change to smaller needles.<br />
P 1 row, k 1 row, p 1 row.<br />
<br />
<b>Begin raglan increases</b> (I've done the math for you so you don’t really need a marker; just be sure to concentrate and not lose count!):<br />
(mkm) for this section means: m1, k1, m1<br />
Row 1: k3, mkm, k4, mkm, k7, mkm, k4, mkm, k3.<br />
Row 2 and all even rows: P all sts.<br />
Row 3: k4, mkm, k6, mkm, k9, mkm, k6, mkm, k4.<br />
Row 5: k5, mkm, k8, mkm, k11, mkm, k8, mkm, k5.<br />
Row 7: k6, mkm, k10, mkm, k13, mkm, k10, mkm, k6. <br />
Row 9: k7, mkm, k12, mkm, k15, mkm, k12, mkm, k6.<br />
Setup for sleeves & body (slip all sts pwise):<br />
Slip 9 sts onto smaller circular needle (if you are already knitting on the circular needle, just slip them to the other end).<br />
Slip 14 sts onto size 1 DPN.<br />
Slip 18 sts onto circular needle.<br />
Slip 14 sts onto another size 1 DPN.<br />
Slip 9 sts onto holder.<br />
Work sleeves (stitches on DPNs) with the other end of the ball for the length desired; finished long-sleeves should be about 2.75” long. I ended with 1x1 ribbing for 2 rows, but you could switch to your trim color and do 2 rows in garter st for consistency. BO.<br />
<br />
<b>Body:</b> <br />
K all remaining sts onto one needle of your choice (I kept them on the circular). When you come to the gaps, k2tog with each stitch on either side on the gap to close them. K for length desired for body. Change to trim color after a p row, k2 rows, BO. Do NOT cut yarn; you will use it to transition to the edging (without having to weave in 2 extra ends). Hang on to the last stitch (I put it on a safety pin). You will now finish the hood.<br />
<br />
<b>Hood:</b><br />
Change back to larger needle. Remove provisional cast-on yarn and pick up 50 live stitches.<br />
Row 1: k all sts.<br />
Row 2 and all even rows: p all sts.<br />
Row 3: k 21, ssk, k4, k2tog, k to end.<br />
Row 5: k 21, ssk, k2, k2tog, k to end.<br />
Row 7: k 21, ssk, k2tog, k to end. <br />
Purl one last row.<br />
Setup for kitchener stitch (grafting): pull your needle cord through the middle of the stitches, so that you have half the stitches on one tip and the other half on the other tip. Hold the pieces wrong sides together; graft the stitches together. Adjust the tension of your stitches so they look like a regular knitted row and fasten off.<br />
<br />
<b>Edging:</b><br />
Pick up that last stitch you left from the bound-off row. Using your medium needle now, pick up and knit stitches all the way around the front edge, from bound off edge around the front of the hood to the bound off edge on the other side. Be sure to pick up your stitches with the RIGHT side facing. I picked up one stitch every two rows for the sections knitted on the smaller needles and one stitch every row for the section knitted with the larger needles. K 2 rows and BO all sts.<br />
<br />
Sew sleeve seams. Weave in all ends. <a href="http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter02/FEATdiyknitter.html">Block</a>, using the wet method or the pin-and-spritz method, especially if you used cotton yarn. Sew on your closure. You’re done!<br />
<br />
Embellishment ideas: I chose pink and green so that I could sew on black seed bead “seeds” and have a watermelon hoodie. Other ideas? Use a furry yarn for the trim for a snuggly anorak; sew bunny or kitty ears to the hood (or devil horns and a tail, if your dolly is so inclined); use a self-striping sock yarn or other patterned yarn for minimal effort. A cropped hoodie (shorten the body length) or cap-sleeved hoodie would be fun too (only knit a couple of rows for the sleeves and then bind off). Or go the other direction and make a knee-length hoodie for a glamorous look (or a boxer-style robe). The possibilities are limited only by your imagination!Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-23994161840541107282009-11-16T14:22:00.008-06:002011-10-04T12:18:44.687-05:00Knitting Pattern: Pullip Bolero<b> </b>I can't take credit for designing this. It's based on <a href="http://kellymaher.wordpress.com/2007/07/04/ribbed-lace-bolero/">http://kellymaher.wordpress.com/2007/07/04/ribbed-lace-bolero/</a><br />
The nice thing about knitting for a doll is that you can make garments you wouldn't otherwise - I would never wear a bolero, or green, but my doll looks great in both. You will also notice that she is wearing a white version of the <a href="http://mnordyke.blogspot.com/2009/10/introductory-post-pssh.html">strapless top</a> with ribbons sewn on for straps.<br />
<br />
Note: it may be easier to put the sweater on if you remove her hands first (if possible). Another option is to wrap them in a little bit of plastic wrap.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk7zqK_PfBhejZzVWPQlQD-GnoJzdVdfH6zyBEegl9Eq_rHiuqwaEefNR8uJhks0oOQn8rNa4Th3KlfKw98f8FUiDzhR-w67H2JYTWdwZcQye7wTK2ZVEQOXxKg7h0SBO8c1vHjS_aQK8/s1600/DSC_0224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk7zqK_PfBhejZzVWPQlQD-GnoJzdVdfH6zyBEegl9Eq_rHiuqwaEefNR8uJhks0oOQn8rNa4Th3KlfKw98f8FUiDzhR-w67H2JYTWdwZcQye7wTK2ZVEQOXxKg7h0SBO8c1vHjS_aQK8/s320/DSC_0224.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE11R52aG50IFTmZe7lT_Xszr7eSwftQ5Mvny2wv6qVYzPoIzNxB8ZzqWHmhnMCz7qmVjS1iT149XIahGR16BEJmMBJkmFGhs5hOix0gFB-jL20IVnlGEG2AXjo_DjFfQYXsYikeZ3CkA/s1600/DSC_0223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE11R52aG50IFTmZe7lT_Xszr7eSwftQ5Mvny2wv6qVYzPoIzNxB8ZzqWHmhnMCz7qmVjS1iT149XIahGR16BEJmMBJkmFGhs5hOix0gFB-jL20IVnlGEG2AXjo_DjFfQYXsYikeZ3CkA/s320/DSC_0223.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikL1IpPeTuRE8KkFwkGVmwoOxCmca9RjptBCDEtPCjZGxJcR1u0MCf6rJy5EMdpwqE0BYTyJrVBZ94eKjwxfMirh8bA6MYKSQs7HZf9B5m3bdzRvoppUmso1dWIsuFK1cxf4C6bNVyNbI/s1600/DSC_0216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikL1IpPeTuRE8KkFwkGVmwoOxCmca9RjptBCDEtPCjZGxJcR1u0MCf6rJy5EMdpwqE0BYTyJrVBZ94eKjwxfMirh8bA6MYKSQs7HZf9B5m3bdzRvoppUmso1dWIsuFK1cxf4C6bNVyNbI/s320/DSC_0216.JPG" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Pullip Ribbed Lace Bolero</b></span></div></div><b>You will need:</b><br />
<ul><li>Size 000 needles</li>
<li>Size 0 needles</li>
<li>Size 20 cotton crochet thread</li>
<li>Sewing needle</li>
<li>Scissors & ruler<br />
</li>
</ul><b>You will need to know:</b><br />
<ul><li>1x1 ribbing</li>
<li>Cast on & bind off</li>
<li>Lace pattern stitch (below)</li>
<li>K2tog<br />
</li>
</ul><b>Lace Pattern</b> - Lace Mesh st (multiple of 2 sts + 4 rows)<br />
Row 1: K1, *yo, k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1.<br />
Row 2: P all sts.<br />
Row 3: K2, *yo, k2tog, rep from * to end.<br />
Row 4: P all sts.<br />
<br />
<b>Sweater</b>:<br />
CO 42 sts with size 000 needles. Work 6 rows in 2x2 rib (k2, p2 rib).<br />
Using 000 needles, work 1 row of Lace Mesh st.<br />
<br />
Change to size 0 needles. Work rows 2-4 of Lace Mesh st, then rep pattern for about 1.25". End after an odd row (I ended after a row 1).<br />
<br />
Change to size 000 needles. P 1 row.<br />
Work 6 rows in 2x2 rib. BO all sts.<br />
<br />
Sew the ribbing together at the sides, then reinforce by sewing down again and even knotting. A shoddy job will take its toll the first time you put the bolero on the doll! (I found out the hard way.) Do not sew the lace together. The holes left by the seams are the armholes.Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-65086500952048447152009-11-06T20:29:00.001-06:002009-11-06T20:36:31.829-06:00Beef stew, third generation recipe!My grandma used to make the most amazing beef stew when we were little. I know it's corny, but she used to call it "Stew-goo." So that's how I remember it.<br />
<br />
It's a pretty simple recipe, and because it was such a dear part of my childhood, I want to share it with you.<br />
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</div><div style="text-align: center;"><b> </b>(Please pardon my messy stove!)<br />
</div><b>Grandma's Beef Stew</b><br />
You will need:<br />
1-2 pounds beef stew meat, tenderized or plain (you could also use pork)<br />
2 russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4" cubes<br />
1 large can of diced, stewed, or crushed tomatoes (your choice)<br />
3 carrots, peeled and sliced into 1/8" coins<br />
3 ribs celery, sliced into 1/8" coins<br />
1 regular-sized can no-salt-added corn (or use frozen)<br />
Kosher salt<br />
Optional:<br />
Onion salt or chopped onion<br />
Okra<br />
Pasta (pick bite-sized pieces)<br />
Beef or chicken stock or broth<br />
<br />
<br />
In a large pot, boil about 1" of water. Pour in the stew meat. Boil gently for about 10 minutes, or until all of the red is gone. I know this violates everything you know about tender meat, but trust me - the flavor is worth it, and the pieces of meat are so small that their being tough won't matter that much.<br />
<br />
Once the meat looks to be fairly done, add the potatoes and canned tomatoes (do not drain). Add pasta if desired. Boil gently until the potatoes are <i>almost</i> fork-tender. Add broth or stock if there is not enough liquid to cover the potatoes.<br />
<br />
Add carrots and celery (and okra and onion or onion salt, if desired). Simmer about 5 minutes or until the carrots soften just a little bit. Drain the corn and add to the stew. Salt with about three pinches of kosher salt. Cook until everything is heated through (do NOT overcook okra, it will ruin everything!). Serve with crackers and spicy vinegar.<br />
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<b>Spicy Vinegar for Beef Stew</b><br />
My grandma always used small hot peppers grown in her garden or by her friends, but you can get small super-hot peppers (arbol chilies are what I use) pretty much anywhere. Look for small, narrow chilies.<br />
<br />
Cut the stems and throw out any bad, brown, slimy, or otherwise weird-looking peppers. Drop into a half-empty bottle of white wine vinegar. For the first use, you will need to turn the vinegar regularly while you are cooking the stew. From then on out, just keep in the fridge. You can even top off the vinegar a time or two without changing out the chilies.<b> </b><br />
<br />
Pour into your stew to get a little bit of spice and a lot of flavor. Enjoy!<b> </b>Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-989540562395234689.post-73276524543024133332009-10-29T09:36:00.009-05:002011-10-04T12:24:00.307-05:00Introductory Post? Pssh..... I prefer to get straight down to business.<br />
<br />
So without further ado, I present my first pattern, a fitted strapless top for Pullip dolls.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Strapless Top</b></span><br />
<b>You will need:</b><br />
<ul><li>Size 1 US needles. I suggest using a circular needle or two DPN's with point protectors.</li>
<li>2 small snaps or hook-and-eye closures.</li>
<li>Size 10 crochet cotton. You will very likely need less than a tenth of a 50g ball. You could also use lace-weight wool yarn.<br />
</li>
<ul><li>Used for example: Aunt Lydia's Classic crochet cotton in Purple.</li>
</ul><li>Needle and sewing thread in a color matching that of the crochet thread.</li>
<li>Scissors & ruler <br />
</li>
</ul><br />
<b>You will need to know:</b><br />
<ul><li>Stockinette stitch</li>
<li>Cast on & bind off<br />
</li>
<li>1x1 ribbing (K1, P1 ribbing)</li>
<li>Make one, abbreviated m1</li>
<li>Slip-slip-knit, abbreviated ssk</li>
<li>Knit 2 together, abbreviated k2tog</li>
</ul><b>Gauge: 11 sts/per inch in stockinette stitch on size 1-US needles.</b> To ensure accurate sizing, <b>be sure to check your gauge.</b><br />
<br />
Note: slip the first stitch of every row purlwise (pwise) for a neater edge.<br />
<br />
<b>Instructions:</b><br />
CO 45 sts with size 1 needles. Work 3 rows in 1x1 ribbing.<br />
Setup row: p11, pm, p22, pm, p12. You are now ready to begin decreases.<br />
<br />
<b>Shape for ribcage:</b><br />
Decrease row 1: k to 2 sts before marker, ssk, slip marker, k all sts between markers, slip marker, k2tog, k to end.<br />
Next row: p all sts.<br />
Decrease row 2: k to marker, slip marker, ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k to end.<br />
Next row: p all sts.<br />
<br />
Work as above, decreasing 2 stitches every other row, until you have 31 sts on the needles (this will be after a decrease row 1). P the next row as set.<br />
<br />
<b>Shape for waist:</b><br />
K 1 row, p 1 row.<br />
<b><br />
</b><br />
<b>Shape for hips:</b><br />
Inc row: *k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1, repeat from * to end.<br />
Next row: P all sts.<br />
<br />
Repeat last 2 rows twice more. You will end with 43 sts.<br />
<br />
Work 3 rows in 1x1 rib. BO all sts.<br />
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<a href="http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter02/FEATdiyknitter.html">Block </a>(wet method or pin-and-spritz) to keep flat. DO NOT OVERSTRETCH the top when you block it, or it will not fit Pullip properly! Sew snaps to the back of the top; I sewed mine at the top and about halfway down so that the bottom edge of the top can "open" to accommodate the top of pants or a skirt.<br />
<br />
Note: for a dress, you could keep going instead of working the ribbing at the bottom until you have 55 or 59 sts. Then knit straight for the length desired.Megan Nordykehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10675999048069500495noreply@blogger.com5